All Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2026Schiaparelli returned to the stage, challenging the subtle—and sometimes evanescent—line between visibility and mystery. The show, suspended between the tangible and the ideal, revealed a collection that seemed to evoke forms that appear and disappear, playing with negatives and voids without ambiguity.
There is creative direction Daniel Roseberry, at the helm of the fashion house since 2017, who with this catwalk pays homage to the visionary legacy of XNUMX Elsa Schiaparelli, while maintaining a contemporary and incisive style. The title "Dancer in the Dark" already suggests an intention: to immerse the forms in a play of light and shadow, in which the cut-outs act as rhythms, visual pauses that allow space for the imagination.
The front row was graced by prestigious names, from FKA Twigs to Rosalía, Chiara Ferragni, and Kylie Jenner, confirming the brand's enduring appeal. The event, held in the evocative setting of the Centre Pompidou, drew attentive gazes from the international jet set.
The thread of the collection: the see-through as a language
Roseberry seems to want to translate the maison's surrealist vocation into a contemporary lexicon: the cut-out is the true leitmotif of the collection, a device that dramatizes the body, enhances curves, evokes mystery and at the same time decisively reveals.
The color palette embraced contrast: black and white in dialogue, interspersed with intense shades of red, brown, and beige. The lines were meticulously sculpted: tube skirts, leather tops with wavy hems, richly ruffled shirts, dramatically scaled architectural collars, and evening dresses that oscillated between sartorial rigor and modern sensuality.
Among the most applauded moments was a sheer tulle dress—almost a hypnotic veil—challenging the viewer to read the skin and the space behind it. Worn by Kendall Jenner, it became an icon of the boundary between the visible and the invisible.
Tradition and innovation: a seamless union
While rooted in Elsa Schiaparelli's surrealist legacy, the collection isn't nostalgic; rather, it continues a journey that unites poetic aesthetics and contemporary desire. In this sense, Roseberry seems to be aiming for a strong, embodied yet enigmatic female identity, more icon than muse.
The tailored structures, plays on transparency, and experiments with negative space demonstrate how couture-to-wear—that boundary between high fashion and everyday life—continues to nourish Schiaparelli's artistic language. Even the silhouettes, while remaining familiar from the stylistic thread explored in previous seasons, take on a new narrative depth: it's not just about dressing, but about expressing a state of mind.
In short (Italian only)
With "Dancer in the Dark," Schiaparelli reaffirms its status as an essential point of reference at Paris Fashion Week. A sequence of visual gesture, tactile elegance, and poetic tension transforms each piece into a sensual enigma: nothing is left to chance, and everything is designed to stimulate a careful gaze, capable of capturing not only what appears, but also what remains suspended—in the shadows, in the void, in the unspeakable.