The curtain rose in the centre of the Cité Universitaire in Paris: at Paris Fashion Week, Loewe presented his first collection under the creative direction of the duo Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, marking a historic turning point for the historic Spanish fashion house. Greeted by a standing ovation, the debut traces a bold line between art, sport, and a new chromatic energy.
The context of a turning point
The appointment of McCollough and Hernandez had been announced in March: the two, already founders of the brand Proenza Schouler, succeed the long creative reign of Jonathan Anderson, who recently took over the direction of Dior's womenswear line.
The choice of the duo, known for a minimalist aesthetic and a deep attention to contemporary craftsmanship, immediately suggested a stylistic shift: less superficial spectacle and more material and visual introspection.
Setting and visual suggestions
The scenic narrative of the fashion show has already become an integral part of the collection. The painting has been placed at the entrance. Yellow Panel with Red Curve (1989) by Ellsworth Kelly—a visual tribute to the power of color, contrast, and form. The designers called the work an “aesthetic prelude,” a harbinger of the energy that would animate the collection.
The setting was configured as a living gallery, where the wardrobe enters into dialogue with sculpture, painting, and design—a scenographic device that breaks down every distinction between art and fashion.
Anatomy of the collection
The stylistic manifesto presented on the catwalk touches on strong points:
- Vibrant color blocks: saturated and bright shades dominate, in stark contrast to the neutral palettes of the past.
- Volumes and radical lines: sharply cut leather jackets, electric sheath dresses, oversized shirts and high-waisted trousers.
- Soft and sculptural structures: peplum, rounded silhouettes and subtle drapes, which restore movement and fluidity to the architecture of the garment.
- Sporty-luxury juxtapositions: sweatshirts tied on the shoulders, treated denim garments, parkas and bomber jackets coexist with asymmetrical miniskirts and high-level tailored details.
- Accessories are the protagonists: maxi bags left deliberately open, kitten heel décolleté shoes accentuate the balance between boldness and moderation.
Particular focus is placed on textile experimentation: wide pleats, dynamic stripes and artisanal workmanship emerge as essential elements of the new Loewe's DNA.
An applauded outcome
At the end of the show, McCollough and Hernandez were greeted with enthusiastic applause: the audience, standing, celebrated a vision that moved without excess.
Critics and insiders have appreciated the fluidity with which the duo has translated Loewe's heritage into a contemporary dimension, where sartorial rigor merges with the most vital Spanish spirit.
Reflections and perspectives
The debut confirms the idea that McCollough and Hernandez intend to restore to Loewe an authentic fusion between artistic culture and technical pragmatism, moving away from a spectacularity that is an end in itself.
In a luxury landscape torn between generational changes and complex economic dynamics, this first attempt appears as a sign of measured and conscious renewal—an invitation to look to the future without renouncing the strong identity of the past.