A few years ago, I predicted that after a period in which brands had embraced bright and exotic colors for luxury watches, the return of an all-black timepiece would be perceived as something special. If we go back about twenty years, the watch industry has experienced a wave of all-black models, a trend fueled in large part by the energy and vision of Jean-Claude Biver with Hublot, although he was not the only one to promote this aesthetic. Now, in 2025, it seems that all-black watches are making a comeback, and the exceptional Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph 42mm in black ceramic is tangible proof of this. This model is one of the new additions to the Royal Oak Offshore collection for 2025 and is the first to combine a black ceramic bracelet with a modern take on this iconic timepiece.
Since its inception in the 90s, the Royal Oak Offshore has been a symbol of strength and character in the world of high-end watchmaking. Designed as a more imposing and sporty version of the classic Royal Oak – which was already twenty years old at the time, having been launched in the early 70s – this model allowed Audemars Piguet to experiment with innovative materials and designs. Today, however, the brand seems to have scaled back this experimental phase to focus more on style and exclusivity. The use of ceramic in the Royal Oak Offshore began with small case components, before evolving to models entirely made of the material, celebrating the famous silhouette designed by Gérald Genta. Over time, the color range of the ceramic used by Audemars Piguet has expanded, while respecting the constraints imposed by the oxidized zirconium production technology.
The evolution of the brand’s identity has been crucial to maintaining Audemars Piguet’s prestige in an industry where once-exclusive materials, such as ceramic or forged carbon, have become more accessible. Rather than competing on price, the brand has transformed its image, positioning itself halfway between an elite club and a high-end jewelry and fashion house. In this way, the perceived value of its watches depends not only on the materials or mechanics, but also on the wearer. Today, Audemars Piguet watches are distinguished by meticulous attention to detail and a refined aesthetic, appealing to those who want to express their status through luxury and style, rather than simple functionality. True, there are other, more affordable options for a black ceramic watch with a matching bracelet, but none of them can offer the exclusive aura of an Audemars Piguet.
Another interesting aspect of this 42mm Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph is the adoption of the “AP” logo on the dial, without the full brand name. This trend has already emerged on other recent models in the collection, including the 43mm variant of the Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph. Currently, Audemars Piguet offers both the 42mm and 43mm versions, with slight differences in the layout of the chronograph dials, but both adopt the iconic abbreviated logo. From a branding consistency perspective, this choice may seem unusual, but for many enthusiasts it is perfectly natural: there are those who call the brand by its full name and those who prefer the abbreviation “AP”. Perhaps this stylistic choice is intended specifically for those who fall into the latter category.
With a 42mm diameter case, 15,3mm thick and water-resistant to 100 metres, this model retains several aesthetic elements of the first Royal Oak Offshore, including the more compact chronograph pushers (formerly in black rubber, now in ceramic). The dial features the classic “mega tapisserie” texture, combining elegance and sportiness. The hands and indexes, crafted in white gold, have been treated with a black coating, providing a look consistent with the watch’s all-black philosophy. However, the dial is not completely black on black: slightly lighter details are present to ensure readability.
Inside the Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph beats the automatic manufacture caliber 4404, visible through the sapphire crystal caseback. This movement stands out for its fine finishing and has a 70-hour power reserve with a oscillation frequency of 4Hz. Compared to the caliber 4401, used in the 43mm version, the main difference lies in the arrangement of the chronograph counters. An interesting detail is that the caseback is not entirely made of ceramic, but of black titanium, a choice that helps maintain lightness and resistance.
For those familiar with the history of the Royal Oak Offshore, this model represents a refined evolution of an already established design. For those new to the world of Audemars Piguet, it may seem like a completely new experience. However, one thing is for sure: while the concept is not new, the brand continues to offer one of the most iconic and elegant interpretations of the luxury sports watch. This is central to Audemars Piguet's marketing and positioning strategy, which focuses not only on watchmaking technique, but also on the desire to belong to a sophisticated elite. Sure, there are cheaper alternatives to a black ceramic sports watch, but none will have the same refinement and iconicity as an Audemars Piguet.
Personally, I can’t wait to try this model on my wrist to understand if Audemars Piguet has truly brought back the allure of all-black watches. The price of the Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph 42mm, reference 26238CE.OO.13000CE.02, is $86.900.
